‘We get lots of amazing potatoes from Northumberland, from Lucy Carroll and her fields of heritage potatoes – long ones, short ones, white ones and all sorts of multi-coloured ones; even some with sensible names.
Boiled potatoes, married with egg and salad cream is a familiar and beautiful-looking dish. Normally banished to the tubs on supermarket shelves with the coleslaw and hummus, here it is given new life.
What better way to refine the Great British potato salad than to funk it up wonderfully distinct and varied potatoes, delicious eggs, and even a tasty dressing.’
50ml white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon English mustard
75ml double cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Potatoes and Eggs
2kg new potatoes – if you can find some
funkier ones all the better: purple,
blue, red skinned, knobbly etc
1 bay leaf
A few sprigs of thyme
1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half
4 eggs, or 12 quail’s eggs
Pickled shallot rings
Salad leaves – spicy might be nice here,
such as nasturtiums or rocket
Salad Cream / Whizz all the ingredients in a blender and season well with salt and pepper. Set aside in the fridge to thicken up
Potatoes and eggs / Place the potatoes in a pan of salted water (make the water taste like the sea) with the bay leaf, a few thyme sprigs and the halves of garlic, and bring to a simmer (never a rolling boil) for around 30mins, until the potatoes are tender. Leave to cool, then peel (if you can be bothered) and slice into thick, double pound-coin rounds.
Meanwhile, boil the eggs for 6 minutes – or if you’re going fancy, boil the quail’s eggs for 3 minutes – then refresh under cold water and peel. If you want to do this in advance, keep the peeled eggs in a tub of cold water.
Assembly / Lay the potatoes flat on a serving plate, dress them with a little olive oil and salt, then swish, drizzle and swirl the salad cream artfully over the potatoes. Cut the eggs in half and lay on top of the potatoes. Touch the top of the eggs with a little olive oil, salt and black pepper, add a few pickled shallot rings and some salad leaves, simply dressed in house dressing or olive oil and lemon juice, and lastly a few sprigs of salad cress.
Dunford Wood, Jesse (2017) Modern British Food – Recipes from Parlour. Bloomsbury Publishing Pic, London.